The John Lobb factory is among the most renowned manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a center of footwear production in the seventeenth century. Although the brand has been under Hermes since 1976, the factory remains committed to the traditional production process developed in the 19th century.
Technology is used, but sparingly. Specifically, leather cutting is still performed by hand rather than with lasers. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to skilled cutters known as clickers. Their title comes from the clicking sound of the knife striking the cutting table. With special blades, they shape the leather in the old-fashioned way.
Production is limited, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach resembles bespoke work. Employees switch between twenty shoe types in a day, instead of repeating one routine step like in assembly-line workshops. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing the soles to be replaced without damaging the upper.
As with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from six-month-old French calves. Only 60% of each hide is appropriate for main shoe parts, while the remainder becomes supporting details.
The range combines timeless classics with subtle refinements. The City II black Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen double monks gained longer straps and a thicker sole. The Lopez model, introduced in the mid-20th century, now include a rubber sole and fresh shades. Newer icons include the Porth sneakers and the Levah shoes, which are offered annually in different shades and textures.
Through its commitment to tradition and quality, John Lobb remains a benchmark in English shoemaking.
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